What's Eating In Translation?

This website began as a collection of field notes on interesting food I'd tried, or planned to try, in and around New York. (For many more photos accompanied by even fewer words, see my Flickr collection.) Since its launch, in January 2005, I've visited some 1,800 restaurants, lunch counters, cafés, street vendors, fairs, festivals, grocers, and greenmarkets — and my "to eat" list is longer than ever.

The only way to trim it is to hit the road. Four or five times a week, usually with little more than a MetroCard and my Merrells, I track down, or happen upon, food from all over the world. Much of this food is new to me — that's where the "translation" comes in — typically it's inexpensive and procured in casual, even humble settings. I'm less interested in celebrity restaurant owners and designer dining rooms than in learning more about the food, and trying it for itself. (Once or twice a month, I also break bread with the like-minded folks in The World Food Lovers Dining Out Group.)

If you feel the same, and if you have an appetite for something new, Eating In Translation can help point the way.

Charles Southern Style Kitchen

Headed for Yankee Stadium? You can walk from the buffet to "The Bat" in less than 20 minutes.

Continue reading "Charles Southern Style Kitchen" »

Florence's Restaurant

The doors are open to all, but the cuisine makes few concessions to non-African palates.

Continue reading "Florence's Restaurant" »

Meytex Cafe

A return visit confirmed it: This Ghanaian restaurant is less rough-and-ready than it looks.

Continue reading "Meytex Cafe" »

Pop Master Deluxe

Saturday's randy special doesn't fly on Sunday morning.

Continue reading "Pop Master Deluxe" »

Bulgogi and kimchi cart

Wish it was bulgogi and hotdog.

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Sahadi's

It's the largest, busiest, and best-known of Atlantic Avenue's Middle Eastern provisioners, but sometimes I just stop in for a drink.

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Asian Pacific American Heritage Festival

You'll need a thicker straw.

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Word of Mouth: Malaysian at the U.N.

Monday to Friday, the delegate's dining room at the United Nations serves a buffet lunch ($25, plus beverages, tax, and tip) that's open to the public. In addition to a lovely view across the East River and the possibility of rubbing elbows with delegates themselves, the dining room also offers perhaps a half-dozen food festivals each year that focus the buffet on a particular cuisine. On Saturday, I learned that the 2008 festival season will open with the cuisine of Malaysia — specifically, the beloved Nyonya cooking of the "Straits Chinese" who emigrated to the peninsula and flavored their traditional dishes with local herbs and spices.

The Malaysian festival at the delegate's dining room will be held on weekdays from May 12 to May 23, from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Reservations are required, and must be made 24 hours in advance; call 212-963-7625. Men must wear a jacket, no one may wear jeans or sneakers, and everyone must present a photo I.D.

Delegate's Dining Room
United Nations building, 4th floor
212-963-7625
www.DelegatesDiningRoom.com

Mofongo Depot Rotisserie & Grill

Bargain lunch specials, I like.

Continue reading "Mofongo Depot Rotisserie & Grill" »

Krik Krak

This tiny Haitian restaurant sits across from a playground on a dingy stretch of Amsterdam Avenue, but the colorful interior and a friendly "bonjours" quickly put that out of mind.

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Food-Friendly Events, May 9-15

The 29th annual Asian Pacific American Heritage Festival
Saturday, May 10, 12:00-6:00
Dag Hammarskjold Plaza, East 47th St. between First and Second avenues; free admission
www.CAPAOnline.org
I haven't attended any of the previous 28 festivals, but given the scope of the event — "live music and dance, martial arts, film screenings, children's activities, arts and crafts and over a hundred participating organizations," including "food stands" — you'd figure that no one will be going home hungry.

Church Thrift Shop Sale
Saturday, May 10, 9:00-4:00
Bowne Street Community Church, 143-11 Roosevelt Ave., Flushing, Queens; free admission
While passing by the church last week, I spotted a sign (above) that promises "good food" as well as a "free concert at 1:00." I know little about the congregation, other than that they hold services in English and in Taiwanese; if you're in the neighborhood, you might have the chance to sample some uncommon home-cooked food.

Brooklyn Uncorked
Wednesday, May 14, 4:00-8:00
BAM Café, 30 Lafayette Ave., Brooklyn
www.BrownPapertickets.com/event/26417
If you can work around the awkward start time, you'll have four hours to enjoy Long Island wines, New York craft beers, cheeses, sorbets, and more from specialty vendors, and samples from restaurants including Bonita, Flatbush Farm, iCi, La Maison du Couscous, and Smoke Joint. Tickets are $50; last year's event sold out, according to the website.

Hallo Berlin Express

This is much easier to manage when you have a place to sit.

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Roofline above Hallo Berlin Express

While I waited for the eatery to open, near the roofline I noticed raised letters that read "9th. Ave. Flat." (Click on this or any other photo for a better look.) Many of these inscriptions were intended as advertisements directed at passengers on the Columbus Ave. elevated train. Also known as the Ninth Ave. El, it reportedly stood, at least in part, until the 1950s.

Surviving signage for a "9th. Ave. Flat."
744 Ninth Ave. (50th-51st Sts.), rooftop level

Red Bull Chaser?

An odd couple of delivery vans making their rounds.

Red Bull and Pat La Frieda delivery vans
Ninth Ave. between 50th and 51st Sts.

T-Bone Diner

The neon, I liked; the burger, not so much.

Continue reading "T-Bone Diner" »

Krause's Candy Kitchen

They have chocolate, too.

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Jahn's

(This location is closed.) This shopworn "ice cream parlor and restaurant" stirred up a fine vanilla egg cream ($2.10).

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Word of Mouth: Hallo Berlin Express

Update, May 7: "We are going to be open tomorrow from 11:30; we just have inspection," I was told by telephone. Thursday, May 8, it is. Previously:

"Do you know when they're opening?" asked the fellow in the sheriff's hat. The two of us were taking the noontime breeze on Ninth Ave.; I'd just emerged from a look at the new Hallo Berlin Express. The workman behind the counter wouldn't say, I told the "sheriff," but moments later a moustached stranger made an appearance. "May 1," said the stranger (who identified himself only as a partner) before he moseyed inside, perhaps to attend to the tap lines; unlike the famous food cart near Fifth Ave., Hallo Berlin Express will be serving beer with its brats. See you 'round these parts again soon, stranger.

Update: Opening day has been pushed back from May 1 to May 7, as you can see from the sign below. Despite the signmaker's uncertain hand and lack of ease with ordinal numbers, another stranger (unshaven, but moustache-free) confirmed the new, later date.

Hallo Berlin Express
744 Ninth Ave. (50th-51st Sts.)
212-333-2372

Milanes Restaurant

Be sure you ask for dark meat, with the skin on.

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Ronnybrook Milk Bar

It's a showcase for their fine dairy products, with room to sit and relax.

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Chelsea Market

The market is bustling as ever, but the mural has vanished.

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Shun Shun Bakery

Here's a date story for you.

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Tricked-out Bicycle

The owner didn't appear after five minutes, even though his bicycle was blocking the road. That indifference to traffic, and the look of the bike (though not the payload), reminded me of a sweet-potato vendor and a nutcake cart I encountered in Beijing. Love to see some of that action here in New York.

Tricked-out bicycle
Corner of Prince St. and 39th Ave., Flushing, Queens

Cinco de Mayo Festival

I was disappointed by the variety of the Mexican food at Sunday's Cinco de Mayo Festival in Flushing Meadows Corona Park.

Continue reading "Cinco de Mayo Festival" »

Drums Along the Hudson Native American Festival

Much drumming and dancing, more crafts than eats, always something interesting to see.

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Hudson River Foundation

Though they're relatives of herring, each spring the shad leave their accustomed salt water and head for their spawning grounds up rivers like the Hudson.

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La Pregunta

Rest stop for inquiring minds.

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Las Americas Bakery

Bagged myself a snack.

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Food-Friendly Events, May 2-4 (Drizzly Weekend Edition)

Drums along the Hudson Native American Festival
Saturday, May 3, 11:00-6:00, rain or shine
Inwood Hill Park at 218th St., four blocks west of Broadway; free admission
http://lotusmusicanddance.org/DAH
Native American arts and crafts, exhibitions of world dance and drumming, and your best chance in the five boroughs to try corn soup, fry bread, and planked shad

Sakura Matsuri: Cherry Blossom Festival
Saturday and Sunday, May 3 and 4, 10:00-6:00, rain or shine
Brooklyn Botanic Garden, northeast corner of Prospect Park; free with garden admission ($8 tops, for adults)
http://www.bbg.org/exp/cherries/sakura.html
"J-pop concerts, traditional Japanese music and dance, taiko drumming, martial arts, bonsai pruning workshops, Japanese Manga art, tea ceremonies, and workshops for all ages." A "menu of Japanese food" will be available

Romania Day Festival
Saturday, May 3, begins 11:00; no rainy-day plans announced
Water St. from Fulton to Broad streets; free admission
http://www.romaniabroadway.ro/index.php
Music, folk dance, and a haute couture fashion show; most of the food may tend toward the usual street-fair standards

Cinco de Mayo Festival
Sunday, May 4, 11:00-6:00; no rainy-day plans announced
116th St. from Lexington to Second avenues; free admission
At both ends of these festivals, 116th St. can be thumpingly loud (earplugs wouldn't be a bad idea), but as you can see from the photo above, you can get your hands on some fine food — just the thing if you're feeling "Red Hook" hunger pangs.

That same day also brings a Cinco de Mayo parade, along Central Park West from 110th St. to 72nd St., beginning at 1:00, and a Cinco de Mayo festival in Flushing Meadows Corona Park, Queens, near the Unisphere, from 10:00-6:00. No rainy-day plans have been announced for either event.

Court Street Summerfest
Sunday, May 4, 11:00-6:00; no rainy-day plans announced
Court St. between President and West 9th streets, Brooklyn; free admission
"This ten-block festival brings vendors, artists, live music, and food"; even if the festival fare turns out to be nothing special; it's a fine opportunity to visit the many bakeries and specialty stores on Court St. and nearby Smith St.

Stinky Bklyn

I'm an admirer, too.

Continue reading "Stinky Bklyn" »

One Girl Cookies

The fellows at Stinky Bklyn had their own private stash, but it had dwindled to the point that the best they would offer was a referral. After scoring my own whoopie pie ($1.25), twin pumpkin cakes sandwiched around cream cheese frosting, I can't blame them.

One Girl Cookies
68 Dean St. (near Smith St.), Boerum Hill, Brooklyn
212-675-4996
www.OneGirlCookies.com

G. Esposito & Sons Jersey Pork Store

Balls of fun.

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Felmingo

I ended up at the freezer case, not the fridge.

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Szechuan Gourmet

I felt some of the excitement, if not quite the affection, that I remember from the midtown Grand Sichuan.

Continue reading "Szechuan Gourmet" »

Horn and Hardart

Though it's not completely readable from street level, this sign probably pointed hungry New Yorkers to the automat at 1557 Broadway, between 46th and 47th streets. The city's first Horn & Hardart, it opened in 1912 and survived longer than most, giving way to a Burger King in the mid-1970s.

You won't get the same spirit from the tiny, unrelated Bamn! automat on St. Mark's Place — even if you make allowances for different eras of pop music, the pink detailing is a deal-breaker — but my deep-fried peanut butter and jelly sandwich wasn't half-bad.

Surviving signage for Horn & Hardart
West 38th Street (seen from Seventh Ave.)

Piece of Chicken

They were out of breast meat.

Continue reading "Piece of Chicken" »

Word of Mouth: Cambodian Cuisine

It's still "coming soon," and that same sign remains stuck to the window, but when I stopped by on Tuesday, the interior was reasonably well-furnished and free of construction debris, and several folks were chatting off to one side. The lady who came to the door told me that she expected Cambodian Cuisine — which pulled up stakes in Fort Greene nearly two years ago — to open in its new home in four weeks.

This long-suffering Brooklyn transplant has gone through many fits and starts, so the lady's sunny attitude was especially encouraging; at the very least, she seems to be a believer. Realistically, I can't hope for anything like the freewheeling food scene I found in Phnom Penh, but if Cambodian Cuisine simply lives up to its name, I'll be more than happy.

Cambodian Cuisine
1664 Third Ave. (93rd-94th Sts.)
212-348-9100

Cato Corner Farm

It's one of my favorite places for cutting corners.

Continue reading "Cato Corner Farm" »

Quattro's Game Farm

Pheasant kielbasa?

Continue reading "Quattro's Game Farm" »

Harriet's Kitchen

It's the best burger on the Upper West Side.

Continue reading "Harriet's Kitchen" »

Goodburger

Good 'n' meaty.

Continue reading "Goodburger" »

Name These Restaurants

You can order a burger at either one of these eateries, to be sure. One of them is much better known for prodigious cuts of beef, however; the other is well-regarded for its elbows-on-table eclectic fare (though I'd lean toward the mutton stew). Can you name these restaurants? (The answers are included in the comments.)

Grandaisy Bakery

Artichoke: It's not only for Artichoke.

Continue reading "Grandaisy Bakery" »

Ess-a-Bagel

It takes a firm crust to make a creamy sandwich.

Continue reading "Ess-a-Bagel" »

Dunkin' Duck Pierogi?

Even though it's speaking to the discriminating customers at Ess-a-Bagel, across the street, this three-storey-tall banner ad for The Russian Tea Room is keeping some curious company.

Sikh Day Parade and Festival

Chow down at the festival before the parade, and beat the crowds.

Continue reading "Sikh Day Parade and Festival" »

Sip

"Eggs in a basket," they call it.

Continue reading "Sip" »

Kelso Restaurant

Sunday brunch, Panama style.

Continue reading "Kelso Restaurant" »

Food-Friendly Events, April 25-27

Sikh Day Parade and Festival
Saturday, April 26; parade begins 10:00 a.m.; the festival, as parade-goers arrive
Broadway and 41st St. to Madison Square Park
http://www.keertan.org/progstest.php?calview=event&event_id=113

As you can see, it gets mighty crowded near the park, the site of the "fun and frolic events"; you'll also find a "community kitchen" that offers vegetarian food and nonalcoholic drinks, free to all in the spirit of the day.

ANZAC Day at the Sunburnt Cow
Friday, April 25, 4:00-???
137 Ave. C between 8th and 9th Sts.
www.thesunburntcow.com

ANZAC Day pays tribute to members of the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps who fought during the WWI Battle of Gallipoli. The Sunburnt Cow will host a tournament of two-up — a coin-toss game popular among WWI soldiers — to benefit Operation Oz Kids, for children who need urgent medical care in the U.S. that's unavailable to them in Australia.

Customers at the bar can enjoy a three-course "counter meal" for $16; all customers receive free ANZAC biscuits, cookies made of rolled oats, coconut, and golden syrup while supplies last.

From 6:00, food and drink specials and ANZAC biscuits will also be on hand at the Sunburnt Cow's sister restaurant, Bondi Road, 153 Rivington St., between Suffolk and Clinton Sts.

Grillin' on the Bay

After a couple of anxious months without a home, Grillin' On The Bay is back for 2008. On June 7, the city's only contest sanctioned by the New England Barbecue Society will be held on the grounds of (and for the benefit of) St. Mark School, at East 18th St. and Ave. Z, in Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn.

This year's competition is limited to grilling, in the categories of chicken breast, fish, pork, and "chef's choice." Though the event is sponsored by RUB: Righteous Urban BBQ — which makes what may be the best burnt-end dinner in town — the barbecue competition won't return till 2009, alas.

Prospective competitors can find more information at www.grillinonthebay.org. Folks who love great grilled food will find more information here, as June approaches.

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