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Prawn noodles (small; S $4) bathed in a bowlful of peppery yet sweet broth (prepared with figs, says the Makansutra). Also in for the swim: greens, chicken, fried tofu, and tofu skins. The trio of decorative U-peel-em prawns had less flavor than I hoped, even (or perhaps because of) a long soak, but the broth and lo mein were excellent.
Noo Cheng Adam Road Prawn Noodle
Zion Riverside Food Center, Stall No. 4, Singapore
In the Makansutra, the definitive guide to Singaporean hawker-stall dining, cheng tng is described sparingly as "sweet dessert syrup with nuts and fruits." A bowlful of the hot version (S $1.50) included longans, gingko nuts, and small balls of (perhaps) glutinous rice in a juice that tasted vaguely of brown sugar, though it appeared to consist of dark brown mini-pearls of tapioca. Would have been much better if it weren't served lukewarm.
Mohammed Sultan Road Hot and Cold Cheng Tng
Zion Riverside Food Center, Stall No. 34, Singapore
These light, spongy pancakes (S 40 cents per slice) are available with red bean and coconut filling, but I prefer peanut with my pandan.
Ong Pandan Pancake
Maxwell Road Food Center, Stall No. 26, Singapore
My small soup (S 70 cents) sported fried dough and crushed peanuts, but the thin, sweet soup itself was the best part, once I fanned it down to a tolerable temperature.
75 Peanut Soup
Maxwell Food Centre, stall no. 57, Singapore
At 2:00 p.m., Spice Tree was already sold out of many popular puffs — chicken curry and egg, chicken curry and potato, apple, durian — so I swam with the sardines (S $1). The puff itself was very flaky; the spice in the sardine, pepper, and onion filling built with every bite, but not overwhelmingly.
Spice Tree
240 Geylang Rd. (near Lorong 12), Singapore
A small fried mee (S $3) featured a trio of shrimp, plus squid, egg, vermicelli, and lo mein. Oily yet surprisingly light.
Nam Sing Hokkien Fried Mee (Hougang)
01-115J Old Airport Rd. Emporium and Cooked Food Center, Singapore
HSC brand Rose Bandung drink and JJ brand Bandung ("rose syrup milk drink") (each 300 ml.; S 70 cents) had the color and consistency of Strawberry Qwik and a pungent flowery aroma.
F&N Ice Cream Soda (330 ml.; S 70 cents) was clear and lightly carbonated, with a gummy cream soda flavor.
A Mart Supermarket
01-118 Sims Rd. (near Lorong 15 Geylang), Singapore
The "king of fruits" has a sullied reputation among many people, including most of my friends, for an aroma that they find unpleasant. (You're read more than enough descriptions, I'm sure.) To me, durian brings to mind the aroma of overripe ricotta, though with a much milder taste. This evening, since I was noshing alone, two lobes (D24 cultivar; S $5) were more than enough. Apart from a half-dozen large, irregularly shaped seeds and a few fibers, the greenish-yellow fruit was so soft I could almost slurp it down. Sweet, with surprisingly little odor, though what there was, was insistent.
Durian vendor
Geylang St., Singapore
On many occasions, this being downstairs from my hotel:
Yebisu beer (350 ml.; S $3.25). Light amber; light malty aroma; round malty taste, but underhopped.
Yebisu black malt (350 ml.; S $3.25). Very dark brown with a creamy head; toasted malt aroma; somewhat burnt taste, but hearty.
Golden King beer (330 ml.; S $2.60). Straw colored; aroma and taste of spoiled malt fades quickly, thank goodness.
Raffles lager (330 ml.; S $2.20). Straw colored; thin, lingeringly hoppy aroma and taste.
Kirin Chu-Hi grapefruit (350 ml.; about S $4). Clear; very tart citrus aroma and flavor. Like an upscale Fresca with less carbonation, a less overwhelming mouthfeel, and alcohol.
Heaven and Earth mandarin orange tea (300 ml.; S $1) was sweet, with the barest hint of fruit.
Ansan Convenience Store
01-55 Concorde Shopping Center
(adjoining the Holiday Inn Atrium), Singapore
Sri Lankan white pepper crab (about S $20) was a lot of work. I can't say much more, since no notes seem to have been taken during the hour or so that I lingered over my crab while picking and sucking it clean. Those peanuts, by the way, ran me a dollar, and a towelette to clean up afterward, another 20 cents; on the other hand, No Signboard comped me on a little dish of iced soursop for dessert. All incidental, of course, to that heavenly crab.
No Signboard Seafood
414-416 Geylang Rd., Singapore
(one of four locations)
Thank you!
