Saigon Vietnamese Sandwich

Of the dozen or so heros on offer at the former Viet-Nam Banh Mi So 1, the easy way to go is "number one, spicy."

Even sauced up, the house special banh mi (now $3.50) — grilled pork, Vietnamese salami, and sliced pork roll, with the customary carrot, daikon, and cilantro — is not too spicy, but it is a good warmup to a collection of desserts that are nearly as colorful.

Rong Vang brand durian mung bean cake (5 oz.; $1.50) is sweeter than the plain-label version I've tried; perhaps it's the vanilla in the cakey, white layers of mung bean. You'll still taste the durian (the yellow strip sandwiched in between), but that distinctive pungent aroma is dampened considerably. A similar item, a squarish, pale green deo dau sau rieng la dua (durian mung bean soft cake; 5 oz.; $1.50), with pandan and sweetened rice flour, was just OK.

Saigon Vietnamese Sandwich
(formerly Viet-Nam Banh Mi So 1)
369 Broome St. (Mott-Elizabeth Sts.)
212-219-8341