Hy Vong

When I arrived here two minutes after this little restaurant opened for dinner, at 6:00, it was already more than half-full of regulars. No one seemed to mind that Hy Vong's small staff was a little stretched — it was 20 minutes till a waiter took my order — perhaps because everyone knows they'll be well-fed. Indeed, after I ordered the dolphin with mango special ($16.95), I passed the time with a light soup (included), a soft summer roll (an apology for the delay?) and tastes of roasted duck with currant sauce as well as barbecued pork (courtesy of friendly diners on either side of me). My entrée, even if it was a little lacking in complexity, was more than pleasant (though another time I might lean toward the duck). Very good beer selection, too — and except for the lambics, they're all just $3.

Hy Vong
3458 S.W. 8th St., Miami
305-446-3674