Blue Smoke

The "Rhapsody in 'Cue" ($23.95) — a quartet of meaty St. Louis spare ribs, a pile of pulled pork, propped-up pieces of smoked chicken, and a slim slice of sausage — ably hit the appropriate notes, as did a bowl of creamed spinach ($4.95), but they simply didn't sing for me.

Blue Smoke
116 East 27th St. (Park-Lexington Aves.)
212-447-7733