Guagua Pichincha

(This venue is closed.) Until I saw the big red capital letters that spelled out "FANESCA," I hadn't given thought to this Easter-season specialty since I read Calvin Trillin's homage in The New Yorker. After all, I had no plans to visit Cuenca, or anywhere else in Ecuador, anytime soon.

Turns out that fanesca — a hearty vegetable soup that here includes hard-boiled egg and salt cod, with a side of white rice and a tangy hot sauce — is widely available in Queens, from Corona to the eastern fringes of Sunnyside, though only for the final two or three days of Holy Week. And where would Calvin eat? On a drizzly Good Friday afternoon, I couldn't imagine a more restorative bowl than the fanesca at Guagua Pichincha. Make a note for next year.

Guagua Pichincha
43-07 48th St. (39th-Skillman Aves.), Sunnyside, Queens
718-565-9470

Comments

[beebe]

01/19/08: Guagua Pichincha seems to be closed now. I tried to go last night (upon your recommendation) only to find the restaurant was shuttered. It was a Friday night, too, around 9 pm so I don't think I came on an off night...

[Dave Cook]

Thanks for the note, Beebe. I'd seen it dark once before when I thought it should be open, but I didn't want to mark Guagua Pichincha as closed for good until I had some confirmation.

Sorry I steered you to a shuttered storefront; I hope that the next of my recommendations works out better for you!

[beebe]

No need to apologize. My friend Dorothy and I usually head out into Queens about once a week after consulting E.I.T. Plenty of good recommendations including my current favorite, Minangasli in Elmhurst.

(We made up for Gaugua Pichincha that night by eating a Natural Tofu House, a Korean soup place on Queens Blvd around 39th-40th Ave. Simple menu of soups, terrific grilled squid.)