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Central Grocery

The celebrated muffuletta (half; $6.50) did not make a good first impression. They're prepared in advance and wrapped for travel as a matter of course, but the casual toss on the counter put me off. (On the first night of their drive to California, the Ricardos and Mertzes made do with sandwiches dealt out by an innkeeper with equal insouciance; "I hope you didn't go to too much trouble," said Lucy.)

Despite a terrific olive salad, it was a flat in more ways than one. The muffuletta offered by Dive Bar, though it violates an informal injunction against toasting the finished product, is the superior sandwich.

Central Grocery
923 Decatur St., New Orleans

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Next time in the city, take a drive out to Old Metairie and get a muffaletto at Nor-Joe's. Far superior than the more famous Central Grocery's.

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