Elizabeth's

Going only by the name, praline bacon ($5) is not a style I could stomach every day, but judging by all the raves, a morning hike to the Bywater would be well-rewarded.

Quickly rewarded, too, following hot on the heels of my iced tea. They're sweet, leaning toward fatty and salty, exceptionally moist, and fried just past the point where I could twirl them onto my fork. Best in small bites.

Even without the sugary contrast, the plentiful ground beef in Bogalusa rice ($7) was tame, even bland; sausage and the customary dirty-rice vegetables and seasonings contributed more color than savor. A little Crystal's added enough of a kick to bring it up to snuff.

Elizabeth's
601 Gallier St., New Orleans
504-944-9272