Majoria's Commerce Restaurant

This lunchtime-only business-district cafeteria might not invite a second look, except from a clearly local crowd of regulars. After admiring the dexterity of the cashier, who worked the register with one hand while cradling his young son in the other, I sat down to a warm, wet, roast beef po-boy ($6) dripping in peppery gravy. If you must have seafood, for $2 more envision both top and bottom halves layered with shrimp before being pressed together.

Majoria's Commerce Restaurant
300 Camp St., New Orleans
504-561-9239