(This venue is closed.) My first encounter with bitter melon, perhaps ten years ago, was not an enjoyable one.
My friend Jesse's dad, Irv, treated a tableful of us at Golden Unicorn one Sunday afternoon. Lovely time, but as for the gourd in question, I did not like it at dim sum. (Given the size and energetic eating style of our table, you might also say that I did not like it in a scrum. On later occasions, I would not, could not, with my chums, not even with a tot of rum.)
Why then try it here? First, at dinner this Japanese restaurant offers a handful of set meals from Okinawa, new territory to me. Second, I'm very fond of scrambles, stews, and other such non-composed dishes — and most of the Okinawan set meals feature goya champuru, a mix (champuru) centered on bitter melon (goya). Here it's tossed with Spam, tofu, and egg (I believe) and topped with shaved bonito, all serving to mute the melon that didn't seem that bitter after all. Served with white rice, pickles, and a small bowl of wispy red seaweed than constantly slithered through my chopsticks.
For $15.95, a dollar more than the standard version, I ordered the goya champaru with pork brisket — "Oki 2," my waitress dubbed it — for a taste of two exceptional fat slices of multitextured pork belly. Given another visit, I'd insist on a full serving.
Okinawan: Do try some!
Suibi
232 East 53rd St. (Second-Third Aves.)
212-935-1443
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