Tucked at the very end of a winding road, the Fox Island Seafood House provides a pleasant view of the narrow Byram River, especially from its dining deck. Tonight the view swam a distant second to the food itself, introduced by exceptionally light, tender calamari ($10) spiced with hot peppers. Here it's dubbed "Boston" calamari; more commonly it's called "Rhode Island" style, though f.i.s.h. dispenses with the just-as-common greasiness.
A sizable mignon of Hawaiian tuna ($27), seared but still rare, was rubbed in rosemary and black pepper and served in a red wine sauce; accompanied by haricots verts, onion crisps, and sour cream-blue crab mashed potatoes that offered a tantalizing taste of the sea. Diver scallops wrapped in applewood-smoked bacon ($24), served with celery root puree, wild mushroom risotto, and wilted spinach, also featured fine ingredients, though the applewood flavor was a little much for the shellfish.
102 Fox Island Rd., Port Chester, New York