Excellent Sichuan brunch with Bill and Nancy, co-hosted by Neerja and her husband, Baiju. Likely you could find all these dishes somewhere in New York, though likely not to the mouth-watering standards of the sliced spicy pork (shown here), the string beans with spicy minced pork, or the dumplings in hot oil whose long tails offered that little bit of extra noodle. (From the photo at left, click through to Flickr to see more.) Also appearing on the table, though sometimes only briefly: spicy (and less spicy) noodles in broth; cold chicken; baked spicy eggplant; roast duck with shrimp crackers; sweet and sour chrysanthemum fish; and buns with a sweet custardlike sauce.
Wing Lai Yuen
Whampoa Garden, Hung Hom, Kowloon, Hong Kong



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