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Lower East Side outpost of a Cambridge, Massachusetts, stalwart. Hiding in the second row under a thin brown moldy rind, castelrosso ($15.95 per pound) was cream-colored and crumbly, nutty and earthy, and hinting of lemon.
Formaggio Essex
In the Essex Market, 120 Essex St. (Delancey-Rivington Sts.)
Closed Sunday
212-982-8200
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