The name, the tartan valences on the windows, and the golfing décor all say "Scottish," but this marks the 14th season for Mackenzie's Oktoberfest menu. Especially considering that there's no one on the staff of German descent, even in the kitchen, five appetizers and a dozen entrees is a very ambitious addition to the usual menu. Shown: strassburger schweinelendchen ($17.95) herb-roasted tenderloin of pork in a sharp mustard sauce. Also at the table: cambazola au gratin ($8.95) an appetizer of baked brie with ham, walnuts, and garlic; gebraten ente ($20.95) a roasted half-duckling with sundried-cherry sauce, though it could have done with more spaetzle; and Black Forest cake ($4.95), good, if overchilled.
Mackenzie's Grill Room
148 Sound Beach Ave., Old Greenwich, Connecticut
203-698-0223



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