Via Emilia

In a neighborhood filled with high-priced restaurants, Via Emilia recently graduated from a simply decorated, almost spartan storefront to a modish new location off Park Avenue South, yet you can still sit down to a great meal without turning out your pockets. You might start, as my friend Mike and I did, with the salad of smoked duck, baby spinach, green apples, and walnuts ($9); for a splurge, try the parmigiano and pears with 25-year-old balsamic vinegar (shown; at $15, the priciest appetizer). Or you could go rustic with gnocco frito, as I did more than once at Via Emilia's old location; they're hot, slightly oily puffs that you slice open, then stuff at the table with cured meats.

On a Friday, an order of fresh spaghetti with frutti di mare ($13) suited me fine; previously, I've also enjoyed the chicken-and-mushroom tortelloni with truffled olive oil, the tagliatelle al ragu, and the pumpkin tortelloni. Mike had at the grilled seasoned pork chop ($15.50) and the roasted beets and onion ($7); for dessert, he was pleased with his profiteroles ($8.50). I was exceedingly pleased by flourless chocolate cake with mascarpone ($8), a deep dessert glass in which tipped-up slabs of cake threatened to sink into a pool of sweet, creamy cheese.

Via Emilia
47 East 21st St. (Park Ave. South-Broadway)
212-505-3072