Chip Shop

Two fat, tender slabs of fish were the centerpiece of my plaice and chips ($11.50); they rival the version at the venerable Sea Shell, near London's Marylebone Station, except for batter that seeks to stay all of a piece. Chips are worthy straight up, though you can also pile them on buttered bread ($1) and perhaps top them with chunky, sweeter-than-spicy curry sauce ($1.50) to assemble the potato sandwich called a chip butty. Have napkins handy.

On other occasions: Cod and chips ($10.50) was quite good, too; Myers sausage and chips ($8.50) was as heavy as you'd expect; wild mushroom shepherd's pie ($11) had a very earthy flavor. For afters, spotted dick with custard ($4.50) was too much like a muffin, without sufficient suet. Of the deep-fried desserts ($3 each), the Twinkie virtually vaporized in the heat, and the Mars bar seemed less chocolatety than it does off the rack; banana with chocolate sauce, if out of place, was satisfying.

Chip Shop
383 Fifth Ave. (at Sixth St.), Brooklyn
(one of two locations)
718-244-7746