(This venue is closed.) When I first read that La Grolla takes its name from a "traditional Valdostan coffee service," I wondered what role the Near East or Central Asia might play at an Italian restaurant.
In fact, the Valle d'Aosta (say it fast) is tucked in next to France and Switzerland and home to a language variously named Arpitan or Franco-Provençal, whose contributions to English include "glacier," "avalanche," and "chalet."
Next time you're snowbound, you'll be fortunate if the kitchen can rustle up carciofi (above; $11), roasted baby artichokes served with a crunchy almond pesto. Even more satisfying was the coniglio (below; $20.50), rabbit and potatoes roasted in white wine and rosemary. Good ricotta cheesecake ($7), too.
La Grolla
413 Amsterdam Ave. (79th-80th Sts.)
212-496-0890
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