From the upstairs cheese department, Brin d'Amour ($20.99 per pound) was bedecked with rosemary, peppercorns, and juniper berries and drizzled with olive oil, but cheese gave no account of itself beyond a firm yet pliant foundation.
On numerous later occasions:
La serena ($11.99 per pound). Sandy brown with a dusting of white outside, off-white inside; soft-to-semisoft interior with small, irregular pocketing; acrid.
Vacherin Fribourg ($11.99 per pound). Caramel-colored outside, with tiny white mold spotting, butter yellow inside; faint aroma of overripe milk; firm but creamy smooth; nutty overtones.
Fig cake with walnuts and hazelnuts ($6.99 per pound). Mislabeled, it turns out; this one has whole almonds. The fruit flavor is just too much, and even when a bite contained a nut, the contrast in textures made me want to chew the fig, or the almond, but not both at the same time.
Manchego madara ($12.99 per pound), an unpasteurized sheep's milk cheese from Spain, paired with Corazon del Sol brand membrillo (240 g.; $4.99).
Montasio ($7.99 per pound) matched up with Lazzaris salsa di pere (120 g.; $4.99), pear puree with a kick of mustard.
Citarella
2135 Broadway (at 75th St.)
212-874-0383
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