Caprese cuisine often marries the bounty of groves and fields with the day's catch from the nearby Gulf of Naples and Tyrrhenian Sea.
Witness calamari all' agro (above; $10), ever so tenderly sautéed in a citrus vinaigrette sauce and given savory accents by capers and black olives. Rollatine di melanzane ($10), filled with ricotta and fresh spinach and topped with mozzarella and tomato sauce, were the lightest I've ever tasted.
House-made strozzapreti alla Bolognese (below; $17) were tossed with an exceptional sauce of lean ground veal, as well as tomatoes, onions, celery, and carrots; agnolotti ai funghi ($18), with porcini and shiitake mushrooms and a white truffle oil sauce, were just a bit too chewy at the edges. I'd also cast my line again toward the pan-seared filet of branzino alla Siciliano ($22), in a tomato sauce with baby artichokes, capers, and black olives.
For dessert, consider Emme's answer to Eskimo pie: cubo al latte (below; $8), white and dark chocolate mousse in a chocolate glaze, with raspberry and orange coulis. The chocolate soufflé ($9) and the trio of chocolate-rolled profiteroles ($8) are just dandy, too.
Emme of Capri
227 Summer St., Stamford, Connecticut
203-353-0626





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