Otto

In Bensonhurst or Greenpoint they'd call it head cheese; at Otto, the testa (three slices; $9) has an added orange zing, perhaps to help justify the Manhattan price tag. A "primi"-size serving of spaghetti Siciliani ($9) mingled zucchini with notes of fresh chilies, mint, and bottarga — shavings from the cured, dried roe sack of a fish, usually tuna. A meyer lemon panna cotta with huckleberry puree ($7.50) was pleasant.

Otto
1 Fifth Ave. (at 8th St.)
212-995-9559