Tanoreen

Linger a few moments before the display case and its amazing array of Middle Eastern mezze, and you may wonder how you'll ever narrow down your order. (Your server will happily provide all the guidance you could want, but perhaps it's easier simply to bring along a few more friends.) The basics — housemade za'atar bread, smooth lemon-and garlic-scented hummus, and lightly smoky babaghanouj — are exemplary; you'll also find the babaghanouj layered on the crispy eggplant napoleon (top photo; $6.50) and topped with chopped tomato and basil salad.

A deceptively humble "salad" of browned cauliflower buds (middle photo; $5.50), topped with tahini sauce, pomegranate syrup, and parsley, is easily shared but best positioned within arm's reach. Also highly recommended: musakhan ($6), to all appearances a personal pizza topped with chicken, caramelized onion, sumac, spices, roasted nuts, and olive oil.

Leave adequate room (and give the kitchen 20 minutes' notice) for the knafeh (bottom photo; $12), a dessert of shredded phyllo stuffed with sweet cheese, baked, and topped with syrup and pistachios. Sharable by six, though at my table I'd insist on fewer, fatter slices.

Tanoreen
7704 Third Ave. (77th-78th Sts.), Brooklyn
718-748-5600
Closed Monday