(Temporarily closed due to fire; may reopen for Christmas 2011.) This great-smelling Hungarian specialty market offers packaged goods — pickled, pureed, and otherwise — as well as a tempting selection of housemade treats.
The layers of pastry surrounding the poppyseed strudel (above; $8) were shatteringly dry; the very dense filling, interrupted by an occasional golden raisin, was sweet without suggesting any flavor other than poppyseeds. (It helps that the proprietors grind their own.) The sour cherry strudel is terrific, too.
As for head cheese, heed the counterwoman's counsel and take it with a dose of paprika ($5.99 per pound); in the photo below, it's on the top shelf, second from left. Pair it with the market's own sauerkraut (not shown; pint; $2.99), a crunchy, briny rendition that leaves limp supermarket sauerkraut swimming in its wake.
Yorkville Meat Emporium
1560 Second Ave. (at 81st St.)
212-628-5147
www.HungarianMeatMarket.com





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