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Ossau iraty ($19.99 per pound), a sheep's milk cheese from the Basque region of southern France. Peelaway tan rind with a butter-colored interior; sharp, almost grassy lactic aroma; firm, more creamy than crumbly; earthy but mild flavor.
Ernest Klein & Co.
1366 Sixth Ave. (55th-56th Sts.)
212-245-7720
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