Gotham Bar and Grill

A vertical seafood salad ($18) was well-integrated to the point of prissiness, though granted, with very good ingredients. The firm, thick-cut New York steak, grilled medium rare ($36) was exemplary, as was a stack of onion rings (think Michelin Man with a tan); accompanied by "marrow mustard custard," a small disk of Dijon concealing an even smaller nubbin of marrow. For dessert, the meyer lemon soufflé ($12) was airy, and just tart enough; small, but accompanied by pink grapefruit tres leches and dulce de leche sorbet.

Gotham Bar and Grill
12 East 12 St. (Fifth Ave.-University Pl.)
212-620-4020