Itzocan Bistro

Two centuries ago, French soldiers took up arms on Mexican soil; today, at Itzocan Bistro, the two cultures commingle peaceably in creations like this huitlacoche soufflé (special; $9), which raises the black fungus also called "corn smut" to uncommon heights. More down to earth, chicken braised in chardonnay (special; $18), with apples, celery, chipotle, and carrots, might have taken a few more chances with the chilis. For dessert, lemon semolina flan ($6), accompanied by apricot sauce and fresh blackberries, blueberries, and strawberries, was a grainy-textured take on the classic crème caramel.

Itzocan Bistro
1575 Lexington Ave. (at 101st St.)
(one of two locations)
212-423-0255