La Picada Azuaya

Fanesca, an Ecuadorian specialty served only during the week before Easter, traditionally includes 12 grains (for the 12 apostles) as well as salt cod, sliced egg, and some sort of tuber.

Here it's also accompanied by white rice and a salad, plus lime wedges and hot sauce to taste. The soupy body of this fanesca ($15), though refreshing, was less satiating than the more stewlike version at Guagua Pichincha. La Picada Azuaya's mirrored interior and occasionally bouncy soundtrack, however, were equally familiar and welcoming.

La Picada Azuaya
84-19 37th Ave. (84th-85th Sts.), Jackson Heights, Queens
718-424-9797