Dinosaur Bar-B-Que

I wish this cavernous, often crowded chow center showed more consistency. The "Tres Hombres" (barbecue pork, sliced Texas beef brisket, and barbecue ribs; $16.95) is a fair sampler of fair-to-middling BBQ; ordered individually, those amigos fare just about the same. Chicken is good; haven't tried the Elgin sausage.

My favorite appetizer, Creole-style deviled eggs (six for $6.95), easily aces out the (not so) crispy fried green tomatoes (three for $5.95). Of the sides (generally, two accompany every entrée), simmered collard and mustard greens, Syracuse style salt potatoes in melted butter, and BBQ beans are best of the bunch.

Dessert may overwhelm you if you don't leave room; this chocolate custard "icebox pie," or its peanut butter-Oreo counterpart ($5) are best shared. But if you like the sound of sweet potato pecan pie ($5), that's one you'll want to handle on your own.

Dinosaur Bar-B-Que
646 West 131st St. (at 12th Ave.)
212-694-1777