Djerdan

The belly-filling bill of fare at this Balkan restaurant includes a cevapi sandwich ($10.95) that wedges ten of the skinless grilled-veal sausages into an oversized, pita-like somun; it's sided with chopped onion and the tomato-pepper condiment called ajvar.

On previous visits, other Eastern European standards proved sturdy if unspectacular: slices of the stuffed phyllo pies called bureks ($4.95); veal soup ($4.95); garlicky cucumber yogurt salad $4.95); and peppers stuffed with ground beef and rice ($10.95) which would seem smallish if not for a buttress of mashed potatoes.

Beyond the baklava, the dozen desserts ($1.95 to $5.95) will need some explaining from your server. Though many are no stranger to the fridge, three or four shared selections should send your table home happy.

Djerdan
221 West 38th St. (Seventh-Eighth Aves.)
(one of several locations)
212-921-1183