Kefi

An understated destination for refined (and reasonably priced) takes on rustic Greek cooking.

To wit: crispy sweetbreads (above; $7.95) and firm yet toothsome grilled octopus on bean salad ($9.95). Though the "macaronia" section of the menu includes the customary mousaka and pastichio, you'd be remiss to overlook hilopites, flat pasta with pulled braised rabbit (fair-sized at $11.95, but not enough to make a meal). Crisp-skinned bronzino ($16.95) had much more heft, especially when buttressed by potatoes, tomatoes, and olives. Also shown: boutgatza, a sheep's-milk (or maybe goat's milk) cheesecake ($5.95).

Kefi
505 Columbus Ave. (84th-85th Sts.)
212-873-0200