Landmarc

Bone marrow packs gobs of meat flavor into every bite, especially with the aid of a fat pinch of salt. Landmarc's roast marrow bones ($12) are accompanied by sweet onion marmalade (I prefer parsley, as at London's celebrated St. John) and grilled country bread (here it's a little too thick-cut), but they still make for a fine, finger-licking starter.

If you must have meat, this clean-cut bistro offers many more options, such as this simple burger ($13) dressed with ketchup, mustard, and bread-and-butter pickles, on a firm, juice-absorbent roll. Comes with excellent twice-fried fries that I'd happily order all by themselves.

On a later visit, to the newer, more expansive Landmarc at the Time Warner Center, a strip steak with béarnaise sauce ($28) was good, no better, even when accompanied by those excellent fries. The original, relatively cozy Tribeca location may be less taxing on the kitchen.

Landmarc
179 West Broadway (Leonard-Worth Sts.)
(one of two locations)
212-343-3883