Busy, sometimes boisterous destination for the raw and the cooked, Japanese style; savvy sushi lovers also take full advantage of the no-corkage BYOB policy. I was especially taken with the chawan mushi (top photo; weekends only; $8): king crab, shiitake mushrooms, and mitsuba (Japanese parsley) steamed in a egg custard and topped with peelings from the sour citrus fruit called yuzu. Of the nigiri sushi, the unagi (freshwater eel; $3), uni (sea urchin roe; $6), and toro (tuna belly; $8) were fine examples of their kinds; I was also happy to catch the "spider" roll ($10) during soft-shell crab season.
A more-carnivorous approach might take you to beef tataki (bottom photo; $9) pan-seared and served cold, perhaps sided with enoki, shiitake, and eringi mushrooms sautéed in butter and garlic soy sauce ($7). Broiled Chilean sea bass marinated in sweet miso ($16) was very pleasant, though don't expect anything approaching entrée size. To open and close your meal, consider the spicy miso soup ($5) and a trio of rice-dough-wrapped ice cream flavors called mochi ($4.50).
343 East 85th St. (First-Second Aves.)