Thai Market

Yum neau ($7), a watercress salad with grilled skirt steak, mint, onion, and roasted rice, induced a nice, even burn. Portions, though not precious, are smallish; following a trio of steamed chicken dumplings with preserved radish ($4), a too-sweet, crispy crepe of coconut and minced shrimp ($5), and a "main course" of beef Panang ($10), the salad still left me room for a dessert of taro cake over black sticky rice (below; $4).

Big-windowed, airy dining room; attentive service; ambitious menu deserving further exploration.

Thai Market
960 Amsterdam Ave. (107th-108th Sts.)
212-280-4575