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(This venue is closed.) The yellow, blue, and red awning flags Calipan as a Colombian bakery. In the national style, the dough for the baseball-sized fritters called buñuelos ($1) is blended with a mild cheese; a dusting of confectioner's sugar tips the balance from savory toward sweet. The ring-shaped roscon de guayaba (guava twist, not seen here; $2) is a good sharable snack.
Calipan Bakery
87-40 Parsons Blvd. (near Hillside Ave.), Jamaica, Queens
718-298-6484
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