This restaurant chain takes an islander approach to Asian and mainland American flavors.
The most notorious item on the menu: Spam musubi (two pieces; $3.29), a lightly browned slab of the luncheon meat on rice, banded with seaweed.
On a previous visit to L&L's defunct Garment District location, the lau lau (steamed pork paired with roasted pork) was 86'ed by late lunchtime. In its place I ordered the mahi mahi plate, with a scoop each of white rice and macaroni salad; two slabs of heavily breaded fish concealed dark veins inside but tasted OK. Best part was a vibrant yellow, very creamy tartar sauce that bordered on relish, thanks to bits of green pickled vegetable throughout. A side of Hawaiian barbecue chicken offered stringy, skin-on white meat in a tangy marinade.
L&L Hawaiian Barbecue
64 Fulton St. (Gold-Cliff Sts.)
212-577-8888
www.HawaiianBarbecue.com
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