Ramen Setagaya

I rarely allow myself to visit a restaurant two days running, let alone to order the same dish each time, but for the cha-syu-men at Ramen Setagaya ($11), I made an exception. My first sip of broth had something of the sea about it: a scallop-based oil, I later learned, in addition to seaweed, dried scallop (atop the julienned scallions), and sea salt.

Indeed, it's saltier than many such dishes — it's built on Setagaya's shio ramen ("natural salt ramen"; $9.50) — but given the evident quality of the ingredients and the craftsmanship with which they're assembled, the saltiness is just right. As for the pork, you're not likely to find a better use for that extra buck-fifty.

Ramen Setagaya
141 First Ave. (8th-9th Sts.)
212-529-2740