Russ & Daughters

"These chubs had a good life," observed the counterman as he wrapped two fat fish ($6.49 per half-pound). They came to a finger-lickin' good end, too.

Another visit followed a disappointment at International Pickle Day, when Orchard St. came up short on the chocolate-covered version. Maybe I don't know from kugel, but the Russ & Daughters version of noodle pudding ($6.95 per pound) seemed very bland. Even with a dollop or two of sour cream to coax out some contrasting flavors, a scattering of golden raisins and a sprinkle of cinnamon barely made their presence felt.

For sweet-and-salty fish, Swedish style, try the delectable beet-apple-herring salad ($2 for this quarter-pound). Or if there's no convenient bench nearby where you can settle in with a fork, why not have 'em make you a sandwich?

Russ & Daughters
179 East Houston St. (Orchard-Allen Sts.)
212-475-0345