Dinosaur Bar-B-Que

I wish this cavernous chow palace showed more consistency; still, it's a favorite with many folks who have ready access to the Henry Hudson.

The "Tres Hombres" (barbecue pork, sliced Texas beef brisket, and barbecue ribs; $16.95) is a fair sampler of fair-to-middling BBQ; ordered individually, those amigos fare just about the same. Below, that's the beef brisket sandwich ($9.95), with beans and butter-licked Syracuse-style salt potatoes. Chicken is good; haven't tried the Elgin sausage.

My favorite appetizer, Creole-style deviled eggs (six for $6.95), easily aces out the (not so) crispy fried green tomatoes (three for $5.95). Of the sides (generally, two accompany every entrée), best are the beans, the potatoes, and the simmered greens.

Dessert may overwhelm you if you don't leave room; either the chocolate custard "icebox pie" or its peanut butter-Oreo counterpart ($5 each) are very rich, and good to share. But if you like the sound of sweet potato pecan pie ($5), that's one you can handle on your own.

Dinosaur Bar-B-Que
646 West 131st St. (at 12th Ave.)
212-694-1777