Joe's Shanghai

The filling of xiao long bao, the "little basket buns" commonly called soup dumplings in the States, includes a small amount of pork gelatin. When the dumplings are heated, the gelatin melts, and the resulting broth is sealed within, or should be. On a recent visit, though the filling and broth were tasty as ever, crab-and-pork soup dumplings (eight for $8.50) were sloppily wrapped, and some were already oozing when the basket reached the table.

A Shanghai-style favorite of mine, shredded eel with yellow chives, was unavailable that evening (the eel delivery fell through, we were told). Another longtime favorite, crispy yellow fish fingers with dried seaweed ($13.95), were tender and flaky within, and accompanied by the usual potent salt-pepper mix, but the batter, though light and crisp, was short the seaweed.

Joe's Shanghai
9 Pell St. (Doyers St.-Bowery)
(one of several locations)
212-233-8888