Westville

Even if you're not serenaded by Sandinista!, as I was on a recent visit, you'll appreciate this tiny restaurant's devotion to upwardly mobile blue-collar chow. From the specials list, which runs nearly as long as the standing menu, my pork chop ($13) was smothered in mushrooms and grilled onions that were almost caramel-sweet, with just a little pucker; the pork chop itself was solid. Blueberry pie a la mode ($6) was even more simply plated and equally satisfying.

Westville
210 West 10th St. (West 4th-Bleecker Sts.)
212-741-7971