This white clam pie officially spoiled me for all others, until I tell you otherwise.
Though a mozzarella-enabled version does exist, mine (small; an irregular 10-12 in. across; $11.80) relied principally on garlic, oregano, and olive oil to coax out extra shellfish flavor. No toughies, either, perhaps a benefit of easy access to the freshest clams. Each and every mouthful was introduced by snap of teeth through crust — a thin, resilient platform that owes much of its character to Pepe's coal-fired oven. Though the term never seems to be applied to pizza crust, "al dente" would not be unfair.
Even early on a weekend afternoon, folks were waiting to get in, and as the shadows lengthened, so did the line. Arrive early, and if you can, often.
Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana
157 Wooster St., New Haven, Connecticut
203-865-5762
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