Patsy's

Garnished with a few light shakes of pepper, a slice from the takeout counter ($1.50) is exquisitely light, with a simple topping of tomatoes and bright white, fresh mozzarella, a pliant, air-pocketed crust, and (hidden here) that beautiful charring from the vintage coal oven. (The oven is grandfathered at this, the original Patsy's location; newer branches must make do with ovens that don't run as hot but still turn out very good pies.)

For anything more than a plain slice, though, you'll need to step next door to Patsy's full-service restaurant. A full pie (about 16 inches across; $11 plus $3 per topping, whole or half) really shows off that nice wide lip and smoky crust. I like mine with sausage.

Patsy's
2287-91 First Ave. (117th-118th Sts.)
(first of several locations)