The Inn LW12

When the poutine arrives, clear the deck. The Inn LW12 (short for Little West 12th St., in Manhattan's Meatpacking District) trundles out four versions of the infamous Québécois comfort food, which builds on a sturdy base of crisp fries and cheese curds. The classic poutine wets it all down with gravy; for a few dollars more, this version ($17) substituted the drippings of lightly spiced pork belly, piled on in slabs, shreds, and gobs.

Though the fries themselves were unexceptional, they remained crisp enough, at least until I reached the bottom-dwellers that were awash in porky juices. By that time, so was I. Though the poutine with pork belly can be put away singlehandedly, better to tag-team it over a drink or two.

The Inn LW12
7 Ninth Ave. (at Little West 12th St.)
212-206-6623