The owners of this expansive kosher restaurant are natives of Dushanbe, Tajikistan, and the menu follows the usual Central Asian litany: lots of lamb, wrapped in pastry or skewered on kebabs. My favorite (so far) is the samcy with ribs ($2), whose protruding bone, already sliced clean, is mainly for show. The crisp baked dough holds its form well on the plate, but there's so much juicy chopped rib meat inside, you pick it up at your peril.
The restaurant's namesakes, chebureki (Che-buh-REK-ee), are fried and flattish, with a mouth-watering, lightly oily texture. This "special" cheburek (also shown opened up; $2) was filled with minced lamb and onion, and accompanied by the sour plum sauce known as tkemali (tek-Mahl-ee).
The best kebabs start with the juiciest cuts; the "specialty meats," and even the fish, are still good but just not as moist when they arrive at the table. Shown below is the fatty version of the lamb rib kebab ($3). Also shown: the expansive, olive-happy Cheburechnaya salad ($5) and the refreshing beef-vegetable soup called shurpa ($4.25).
92-09 63rd Dr., Rego Park, Queens
Closed Friday late afternoon to Saturday evening