Hidden behind the curtains, this pleasant little serving room for Polish home cooking has the charm that accompanies a lack of pretense: plastic table-covers, plastic flowers, framed prints, a mounted deer's head, and a stereo that played classic rock (at reduced volume).
Soft rye bread and a vegetable plate arrived soon after I sat down, closely followed by a bowl of mushroom barley ($2.25) that stood in for the soup of the day. Creamy, with chunks of potato. Fine-textured veal meatballs in dill sauce ($5.25), with mashed potatoes, were so springy they might have bounced; the sauce is simple, but worth a wipe if you've reserved some of your bread. Blintzes (two for $4.25) run to cheese, strawberry, blueberry, and the chef's special that combines the lot. Love the lightly browned edges.
There's no coffee at Lomzynianka (Lom-zhi-NYON-kuh), only tea, but that's my only quibble. Big ol' jet airliner, it's here I've got to stay.
646 Manhattan Ave. (at Bedford Ave.), Greenpoint, Brooklyn