Ihawan

At this starkly lit but amiable Filipino restaurant, meat is at the center of the action.

You'll find it paired with green beans, in kare-kare (above; $7), stewed oxtail in peanut butter sauce; sautéed with mixed vegetables and shrimp, in the colorful dish called pinakbet (below; $6); or straight up as BBQ skewers ($2.25 per stick for the pork shown below). It's also helpful to have a carefree attitude toward your cholesterol, at least for the evening.

Also worthy of attention: lumpiang shanghai (12 for $5.50), deep-fried pork and shrimp rolls; chicharon bulaklak ($5), deep-fried "ruffle" fat; crispy pata ($8), deep-fried pork knuckle; palabok ($4.50), rice noodles with shrimp, eggs, and shrimp sauce, and halo-halo (below; $3.75), a "mix-mix" of jackfruit, banana, and other tropical fruits with red and white beans, crushed ice, milk, and custard.

Ihawan
40-06 70th St., Woodside, Queens
718-205-1480