Pacificana

Even the "simple" dishes have a certain elegance at this expansive Cantonese restaurant.

Dumplings (four for $3.50) sported unusually thin skins for the pan-fried version; the traditional Hakka preparation of stewed pork with preserved greens ($9.95) piled a huge portion of righteously fatty meat atop sour, chopped vegetables. Also shown, above and below: minced squab ($14.95), in a lettuce wrap and on its platter.

Pacificana
813 55th St. (at Eighth Ave.), 2nd floor, Sunset Park, Brooklyn
718-871-2880