Second shelf down in the refrigerator case, the plastic cups are filled with a sludgy, pond-algae-colored liquid. Fear not.
It may look like the wicked stepsister to Colombia's frozen, much more fetching cholado, but deep down, the champús (chom-Poose; $3) is a sweet blend of ground corn (and a scattering of niblets); lulo, also called naranjilla, the tropical fruit responsible for the color; brown sugar; cinnamon; cloves; and juicy chunks of pineapple, added just before serving.
The very notable cloves would make champús an enticing hot drink in cooler weather, but apparently that version is not available aquí. Instead, on a subsequent, late-morning visit, I faced down a bowl of mazamorra ($2.50) — a sizable portion of white-corn porridge featuring a considerable helping of whole kernels. My mazzamora nearly eclipsed that coffee filter filled with brown sugar; soon after, it engulfed them, chunk by chunk.
Aqui Colombia Antojitos
81-08 37th Ave., Jackson Heights, Queens
718-651-6565
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