Sapori D'Ischia

The name alludes to a tiny island near Capri and Naples, the setting is adrift in industrial Woodside; when I stopped by, the only other business that hadn't shuttered for the evening was the auto-body shop across the street. "Taste of Ischia" is a specialty market until late afternoon, when it performs a quick-change into a restaurant. Seemed clubby, and pricey for Queens, but the food is well-regarded in many quarters.

Sapori D'Ischia
55-15 37th Ave., Woodside, Queens
718-446-1500
Closed Monday