SobaKoh

Soba, plain, hot.

Several hours before this relaxed restaurant opens for dinner, the noodle maker is hard at work, rolling and cutting buckwheat dough in a windowed room by the front door. Kake soba ($8.50) — adorned only by mitsuba leaves (also called Japanese wild parsley) and zest from the citrus fruit called yuzu — were shorter than many soba noodles 'round town, and they tended to break after ten minutes in the bowl. The flavor was delicate, too, though, and the broth was very even-tempered.

SobaKoh has also won attention for the seasonal touches on its menu, such as their assortment of osechi-ryori, or traditional Japanese New Year nibbles ($12). Since they're meant to keep through several days of relaxing (and not cooking), typically the flavors are more intense than they might otherwise be. Shown below: sweet black beans; moist (and sweet!) fish cakes with wasabi; herring wrapped in seaweed; herring roe.

Typically I photograph restaurants only from outside, but curious readers can click on the photo of the bean, select "all sizes" on the ensuing Flickr page, then choose a larger version to find reflected traces of SobaKoh. It's a technique I'll keep in mind for other occasions with suitable subjects and lighting.

SobaKoh
309 East 5th St. (First-Second Aves.)
212-254-2244