This jelly donut ($1) held no more than a dab, but I loved the contrast between its fried-brown skin and airy interior. Previously, a moist Slovak walnut roll ($5) didn't fall all to pieces as many of them do, and the honeyed sweetness showed uncommon restraint.
292 Kearny Ave., Kearny, New Jersey
At the Columbus Ave. Greenmarket
Other times at other Greenmarkets, too, but no retail sales in Kearny